Written by: Steve Kaye
Published in BC Outdoors Magazine/OP Publishing
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As December descends upon us most normal people are
thinking about Christmas and the impending holiday season, but for
a few of us our thoughts are elsewhere dreaming of winter chrome.
December is the start of the winter Steelheading season, as Christmas
approaches the winter Steelhead start to enter their rivers and
streams and as they do the anglers that are called Steelheaders
start to search for the fish that dreams are made of, the winter
Steelhead.
Of
all the many different types of fish that swim in the waters of
British Columbia, Canada none are thought of or revered like the
Steelhead. This is a fish that draws anglers from all over the world
to come here and try to make their angling dreams come true. There
are two different types or classifications of Steelhead in British
Columbia, Canada: the summer run Steelhead and the winter run Steelhead.
This obviously refers to the approximate time that these fish return
from the ocean to begin their spawning run up to there home rivers.
While summer run and winter run fish can be caught using basically
the same techniques there are differences that can and should be
considered for consistent success, the words and suggestions that
follow are geared towards the ever-elusive and challenging winter
Steelhead.
Now that we have divided Steelhead into two distinct
categories we will again divide the winter run fish into two sub
categories, early run Steelhead (December, January and February)
and late run Steelhead (March, April and May) While both early and
late run Steelhead are classified as winter fish they definitely
have a different personality and disposition towards an anglers
bait.
Early run winter Steelhead arrive back at their home
rivers bright silver and strong from their life out at sea. When
a early run winter Steelhead returns they are in the best shape
of their life. Most winter fish will not spawn for at least two
to four months after they have entered there home river or stream.
Winter Steelhead are not in the river to feed, they will however
eat selectively on perceived food items that come their way that
do not require excessive amounts of energy to intercept. This willingness
to feed selectively is one of the weaknesses that consistently successful
Steelheaders have learned to exploit in their continuing quest to
capture the mighty Steelhead.
There are few things that can increase your success
like time spent on the river. Anglers who catch
Steelhead consistently spend many hours wandering up and down their
favorite rivers. As the season progresses a river and the Steelhead
that reside in it go through changes. Water levels, water clarity
and water temperature play a major role in a steelheaders success
and the approach or strategy that they will try to employ. Early
season Steelhead are much more passive or laid back than late season
fish. Typically the water temperature in December, January and February
is on the chilly side and with steelhead being cold-blooded creatures
they tend to be a little less likely to chase down or move of the
bottom for any bait. Early season winter steelhead can however be
caught quite readily using the right approach. The real key to enticing
a fish that is not willing to move very far for bait is to make
his decision an easy one and to take your bait as close as possible
to him. To catch winter steelhead your bait must be fished in the
bottom six inches of the river.
With out a doubt one of the most important keys to
becoming a consistent steelheader is to learn how and why to cover
water. Many anglers have very good success in the fall fishing for
salmon and
then wonder why that the have very little success fishing for winter
steelhead in the winter. The fall salmon runs can be looked at as
a giant conveyor belt, once you have found a good piece of holding
water you can pretty much sit there all day as the conveyor belt
consistently moves by you with a fresh supply of salmon. You just
have to realize that it is a numbers game. Salmon can be in the
rivers buy the thousands on a daily basis; steelhead however may
only have run of a few hundred to few thousand over the entire season.
So while a "let them come to me" approach works just fine for the
fall salmon fishery the winter steelhead season requires a more
proactive plan of attack. When most winter steelhead enter their
home rivers the fall salmon have pretty much completed there spawning
and have died off, the steelhead has the run of the river and can
decide exactly where he or she feels most comfortable. Some steelhead
will sit in one spot for days if undisturbed while others will move
around daily. Steelheaders who catch a lot of steelhead in a season
do so because they know their river well and have developed what
I call a steelhead circuit. To develop a steelhead circuit requires
two things, an understanding of the type of water that steelhead
prefer and the time to explore your river regularly to find the
spots that hold steelhead consistently. In the fall large portions
of runs will produce fish because there are so many fish available,
but during steelhead season you need to narrow it down to the "spot
within a spot". This is the exact location where fish prefer to
hold in a given run or pool on a river. These spots will regularly
produce fish as long as the water conditions remain favorable. So
once you have located six to ten of these "spots within a spot"
you have now created a steelhead circuit. To utilize this circuit
effectively you must cover all of these spots every trip. This means
that you have to do some serious hiking, I never promised that this
would be easy but if you want to catch winter steelhead consistently
you have to put the miles on.
Once an angler has identified several good runs or
pools to fish they also need to know how to systematically cover
these spots to find the potentially willing fish hidden within.
Winter steelhead get their name because they are in the rivers in
the winter time and this means that the water temp will be on the
chilly side. Because Steelhead are cold blooded cold water can make
them less likely to move very far to intercept a bait. Always remember
to have your float adjusted so that your weight makes contact with
the river bottom every three to six feet of drift. Another important
point to note is that river conditions will also affect where fish
will hold, for example when the river is running high, fish will
tend to hold lower in a pool or run and will slowly move up as the
water levels fall. When a rivers clarity is poor Steelhead can sit
very close to the shore and when rivers run gin clear Steelhead
will hold in the deeper water farther out.
To properly cover water, especially new water, you
should start fishing from the top of the run or pool and work your
way down. You will want to dissect the run in front of you in a
grid like fashion.
Basically you will want to make a short cast followed by longer
cast then still a farther cast until the water in front of you has
been completely covered also don't hesitate to pay special attention
to spots that look extra fishy. Next take a step or two down river
and repeat the whole process over. Each time you make a move down
river you give your bait a new chance at a Steelhead. By fishing
different runs or pools in this fashion you will find the preferred
spots that Steelhead like to be in, and the river conditions that
each spot fishes best at, hence you will find the "spot within a
spot". The most common question asked by anglers who want to catch
a steelhead or just catch more steelhead is undoubtedly, what is
the best bait? My answer to this is that they pretty much all work.
Ask 10 different successful Steelheaders this question and you will
probably get 10 different answers. The one constant between good
anglers is that their approach or game plan is the same. How you
fish is as or even more important than what you fish. Don't get
me wrong your bait, be it organic or artificial does matter, but
where you fish and how you present this bait is crucial!
Understanding bait presentation is extremely important
but this seems to be the least understood component about steelhead
fishing by most anglers. Fly fisherman use the term presentation
all the time, drift or float fisherman should consider this more
often. The presentation of your bait quite simply is how the fish
sees you offering and does he or she find it appealing?
To properly present various baits to winter Steelhead
you first must have the appropriate gear. The most effective way
to catch winter Steelhead is to float fish for them. While there
is some personal preference that goes into gear selection for float
fishing, it is generally accepted that 10ft to 13ft medium action
rods equipped with level wind or single action center pin style
reels are the rods of choice. Reel selection be it level wind or
center pin is an anglers preference they both do the job well but
the longer rods are a must to properly float fish. You need the
length to keep your line off the water to properly make your drifts.
If your line is in the water the current will pull it dragging the
float downstream this causes a very unnatural presentation and is
not very effective.
Once you have your rod and reel set up you then have
to concentrate on the terminal tackle or rigging. The main line,
or the line on your reel, should be 15lb to 20lb test of quality
monofilament. The next step is the float, not all floats are created
equal. Steelhead floats come in several forms the most common
and least expensive are the foam "dink floats" these floats work
o.k. and don't cost much so they are the most popular. The next
floats to consider are the balsa wood and cork floats. These floats
are hand made and fish much better than the foam models. For the
angler that has to have the best, there are the European clear plastic
models these are the best money can buy, no steelhead float on the
market can match their sensitivity and superior fishing characteristics.
Winter Steelhead live on the bottom of the river so to get to them
takes some weight; a piece of pencil lead attached to your line
is all that is required. The lead should be large enough to sink
your float so that only the top quarter is visible above the surface
of the water. Below the pencil lead is a swivel, size 10 to 14 will
do just fine. Below that is the leader to your bait. Leaders will
vary in length and strength depending on water conditions; low and
clear water requires longer lighter leaders in the 8lb and 36 inch
range. Higher dirty water means to go heavier and shorter, 20 inches
and 12lb test would get the job done here. On the business end of
things is the bait and hook. Steelhead style hooks are available
from several different manufactures remember that as with line you
get what you pay for, there is no substitute for quality hooks.
Hook size depends on couple of different factors, bait size and
water clarity. In low clear water conditions small baits with smaller
sized hooks in the size 4 to size1 will work well, where as in colored
high water conditions larger baits and hook sizes in the 1/0 to
3/0 range will be more appropriate.
As mentioned before bait selection is always a hot
topic. Steelhead baits can basically be divided into two categories
organic and artificial. Personally I feel that the way a bait is
fished is just as important as to the type of bait that an angler
chooses. Two or three different well-presented baits that match
the river conditions will be successful if willing fish are present.
Anglers have to be aware of the river conditions and be willing
to try several baits in each spot to see what the fish seem to want
on a given day. Organic baits are very productive, winter Steelhead
will often fall for a well-presented piece of roe or a good-looking
ghost shrimp. Single eggs tied in spawn sacks as well as prawn tails
can also work well. Artificial baits are as varied as the colors
in the rainbow, gooey bobs, spin n glows, Jensen eggs, Colorado
blades, yarn ties and pink worms are few of the regular bits and
pieces you will find in any good steelheaders arsenal. Keep in mind
that the color and size selection of these items is almost unlimited.
How then can any angler make a choice on what bait to fish on any
given day? The approach that I have found productive is to pick
three or four different baits usually consisting of one organic
bait and two or three artificial baits and systemically working
each one through each run or pool that I fish all day. Changing
up your bait is worth the time and efforts; this can make a major
difference in you success rate no question about it!
Recently there has been some debate about weather
or not to allow the use of organic baits for winter Steelhead. There
is speculation that this encourages higher mortalities because it
is thought that winter steelhead will take organic baits deeply
and be more likely to expire if released. There are justified concerns
where summer run steelhead are present because at times they will
take a organic baits deeply but to suggest that the same is true
for winter steelhead leads me to believe that the people who suggest
this have either not caught many winter steelhead or they are following
a private agenda. Winter steelhead, at least in my experience are
very seldom hooked deeply with any bait be it organic or artificial.
This may vary from area to area somewhat, but overall the overwhelming
majority of fish are lip hooked and can easily be released unharmed
if properly handled. Personally I feel we should work together to
promote good catch and release habits among anglers and not bicker
and try to add more regulations to an already confusing and over
regulated fishery.
As
you walk up and down the rivers these days you will see more and
more anglers using higher quality floats, these floats are made
from balsa wood, cork and there are even high-tech clear plastic
models available. Many anglers scoff at paying the six to seven
dollar price tag that goes with these flashy floats. But consider
this, these floats definitely have superior fishing characteristics,
they make better drifts, they cast better and they even retrieve
better but most of all they are way more sensitive. These floats
can detect even the most subtitle take. When you consider what you
have paid out for the rest of your gear and what your time is worth
it just makes sense to invest a little more into the one piece of
tackle that actually tells you that the steelhead you have been
searching for all day is finally biting.
There are many pieces to the puzzle
that makes for successful winter Steelhead fishing. Rods and reels,
lines, floats, weights, bait selection, water conditions and location
are all very important but the one characteristic that all good
steelheaders have in common is that they all have the ability to
interpret all the different variables and make the right decisions
on how, what and where to fish effectively. The bottom line is to
be a good Steelheader you have to have the right attitude; you must
have a game plan and be willing to put in the time, be aware of
what the river and the fish are trying to tell you. Winter Steelhead
fishing may not be easy but this is one of the most rewarding fisheries
in British Columbia for a truly spectacular sport fish.
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